Pool Table & Room Size
Basically, pool tables come in three sizes: 7’, 8’, & 9’. Pool tables are always twice as long as the width so the actual size distinctions should read: 3 ½ x 7’ - 4 x 8’ - 4 ½ x 9’
These numerical distinctions have nothing to do with the actual size of tables, they are just a general category that is easily understood by the public.
Pool table manufacturers use another method of classifying their tables and that is by “playfield” size. This measurement is the actual playfield size of the table from inside tip (nose) of the cushion across to the other tip.
Here’s an example: A standard 7’ table has a playfield of 38” across by 76” long. The reason we don’t use the outside dimensions of the table is that depending on the style of table and who is making them, the actual width of a rail can very a lot from table to table. So here’s a breakdown of size of table based on playfield dimensions.
7’ Playfield = 38” x 76” 39” x 78” 40” x 80”
8’ Playfield = 44” x 88” or 46” x 96” (regulation)
9’ Playfield = 50” x 100”
As you can see, a 7’ table actually has 3 different sizes, an 8’ table has 2, and a 9’ table has only one. Just a minor note. A 9’ table is only found in pool rooms or in the homes of professional pool players or extremely proficient “student of the game” amateurs. Unless you are one of these, you probably need to stay in the 7’ & 8’ size.
When I was growing up in the 60’s, if you wanted to play pool on a real pool table, you either went to a stand alone pool room or a pool room inside a bowling alley. They were all 9’ regulation tables. Today, times have really changed. Today, assuming you’re not playing in someone’s home, you will probably wind up in either a tavern or club playing on a coin-operated , 40” x 80” (7’) pool table. These are now known as official league tournament tables.
Our tables come in two sizes: 8’ (44 x 88” playfield) and 7’
(40 x 80” playfield) which is the official tournament size.
In reality, about 90% of the tables we sell are 7’ (40 x 80”) league tournament size, and there are three reasons for this.
First, they are less expensive than our 8’ tables. Second, because they are a bit smaller (actually only 4” less in width and 8” in length) and they fit into peoples homes easier. But, I feel, the largest reason we sell more 7’ tables is because they are the exact same size as the tables most people now play on and they are the same size table that all pool leagues use, and people want to play on the same size table that they are familiar with.
Recommended Space
I have listed below two different sizes of rooms. One is what I call “wall to wall” which means that if you place the tip of the cue on the tip (called the “nose”) of the cushion, the end (butt) of the cue will touch the wall. The second size we’ll call “optimum” This size gives you additional room to backstroke the cue.
7 Foot Wall to Wall Optimum
38” x 76” playfield = 12’ 8” x 15’ 10” 13’ x 16’ 2”
39” x 78” playfield = 12’ 9” x 16’ 13’1” x 16’ 4”
40” x 80” playfield = 12’ 10” x 16’ 2” 13’2” x 16’ 6”
8 Foot
44” x 88” playfield = 13’ 2” x 16’ 10” 13’6” x 17’ 2”
46” x 92” playfield = 13’ 4” x 17’ 2” 13’8” x 17’6”
9 Foot
50” x 100” playfield = 13’ 8” x 17’ 10” 14’ x 18’ 2”
In a perfect world, either of the above specs would be terrific. However, for most of us, we have to make some type of compromise. I live in Wisconsin where we have basements, and it is very common to have support posts located at about 12’. If it was incumbent that the consumer had the perfect space, we wouldn’t have a dealer in the state. The length of the room is generally not a problem, it always seems to come down to width.
Both 7’ and 8’ tables have a footprint of about a 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood and in a typical basement/room, that’s nothing. But what you really need is the “cue space” around the table. Where people get (very) confused is the length of a typical cue is 57” not 48”.
However, support posts aren’t the only obstacle. Many rooms have stairways, bars and a host of other things that get in the way of a cue. If you would like to figure out the measurements for yourself, the math is pretty easy. Simply take the playfield dimensions (which is the measurement across the table from cushion tip to cushion tip - once you get the side to side dimension the length is double that) of the size of table you’re interested in. If you happen to be looking at a particular table online, typically they list the playfield size under the picture.
Now, take that dimension, add 114” to it (this represents two 57” length cues) and divide by 12. This might help you if you’re trying to work around a particular obstacle.
There are a number of ways to locate your table that will allow you the most space, and any competent salesperson should know them.
In most homes, “short” cues are just a part of the game. They come in lengths of 36”, 48” and 52”. While a short cue is fine for the occasional shot, you really don’t want to play with them all the time.
For all of us who sell tables, the one situation that hurts the most is when you have a buyer who really enjoys playing pool and wants a table only to find out that they simply don’t have the room for it.
Everyone loses. They can’t get a table, and we lose a sale.
So what is the minimum size that you can have and still enjoy a good game? It’s a good question, but very subjective, so I’ll give you my personal opinion on what I do. I am also assuming this is for a room with 4 solid walls, not an open room that just happens to have a post at 12”.
Our largest selling table has playfield dimensions of 40” x 80”. It is the largest table in the 7’ category (and only 4” less in width and 8” in length than a regular 8’ table).
If you look at the chart above. The wall to wall space needed is 12’ 10” x 16’ 2”. If it was an average family that just wants to have fun, I’d drop down to 12’ in width, include a short cue but I would make sure that they were aware that they we’re going to be a bit tight on some shots. In this example, if the room size was under 12’ (in width) I start to go the other way, and try and convince them not to buy the table.
For a good read about why playing on a large table doesn’t make you a better league (smaller table) player, click here.
These numerical distinctions have nothing to do with the actual size of tables, they are just a general category that is easily understood by the public.
Pool table manufacturers use another method of classifying their tables and that is by “playfield” size. This measurement is the actual playfield size of the table from inside tip (nose) of the cushion across to the other tip.
Here’s an example: A standard 7’ table has a playfield of 38” across by 76” long. The reason we don’t use the outside dimensions of the table is that depending on the style of table and who is making them, the actual width of a rail can very a lot from table to table. So here’s a breakdown of size of table based on playfield dimensions.
7’ Playfield = 38” x 76” 39” x 78” 40” x 80”
8’ Playfield = 44” x 88” or 46” x 96” (regulation)
9’ Playfield = 50” x 100”
As you can see, a 7’ table actually has 3 different sizes, an 8’ table has 2, and a 9’ table has only one. Just a minor note. A 9’ table is only found in pool rooms or in the homes of professional pool players or extremely proficient “student of the game” amateurs. Unless you are one of these, you probably need to stay in the 7’ & 8’ size.
When I was growing up in the 60’s, if you wanted to play pool on a real pool table, you either went to a stand alone pool room or a pool room inside a bowling alley. They were all 9’ regulation tables. Today, times have really changed. Today, assuming you’re not playing in someone’s home, you will probably wind up in either a tavern or club playing on a coin-operated , 40” x 80” (7’) pool table. These are now known as official league tournament tables.
Our tables come in two sizes: 8’ (44 x 88” playfield) and 7’
(40 x 80” playfield) which is the official tournament size.
In reality, about 90% of the tables we sell are 7’ (40 x 80”) league tournament size, and there are three reasons for this.
First, they are less expensive than our 8’ tables. Second, because they are a bit smaller (actually only 4” less in width and 8” in length) and they fit into peoples homes easier. But, I feel, the largest reason we sell more 7’ tables is because they are the exact same size as the tables most people now play on and they are the same size table that all pool leagues use, and people want to play on the same size table that they are familiar with.
Recommended Space
I have listed below two different sizes of rooms. One is what I call “wall to wall” which means that if you place the tip of the cue on the tip (called the “nose”) of the cushion, the end (butt) of the cue will touch the wall. The second size we’ll call “optimum” This size gives you additional room to backstroke the cue.
7 Foot Wall to Wall Optimum
38” x 76” playfield = 12’ 8” x 15’ 10” 13’ x 16’ 2”
39” x 78” playfield = 12’ 9” x 16’ 13’1” x 16’ 4”
40” x 80” playfield = 12’ 10” x 16’ 2” 13’2” x 16’ 6”
8 Foot
44” x 88” playfield = 13’ 2” x 16’ 10” 13’6” x 17’ 2”
46” x 92” playfield = 13’ 4” x 17’ 2” 13’8” x 17’6”
9 Foot
50” x 100” playfield = 13’ 8” x 17’ 10” 14’ x 18’ 2”
In a perfect world, either of the above specs would be terrific. However, for most of us, we have to make some type of compromise. I live in Wisconsin where we have basements, and it is very common to have support posts located at about 12’. If it was incumbent that the consumer had the perfect space, we wouldn’t have a dealer in the state. The length of the room is generally not a problem, it always seems to come down to width.
Both 7’ and 8’ tables have a footprint of about a 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood and in a typical basement/room, that’s nothing. But what you really need is the “cue space” around the table. Where people get (very) confused is the length of a typical cue is 57” not 48”.
However, support posts aren’t the only obstacle. Many rooms have stairways, bars and a host of other things that get in the way of a cue. If you would like to figure out the measurements for yourself, the math is pretty easy. Simply take the playfield dimensions (which is the measurement across the table from cushion tip to cushion tip - once you get the side to side dimension the length is double that) of the size of table you’re interested in. If you happen to be looking at a particular table online, typically they list the playfield size under the picture.
Now, take that dimension, add 114” to it (this represents two 57” length cues) and divide by 12. This might help you if you’re trying to work around a particular obstacle.
There are a number of ways to locate your table that will allow you the most space, and any competent salesperson should know them.
In most homes, “short” cues are just a part of the game. They come in lengths of 36”, 48” and 52”. While a short cue is fine for the occasional shot, you really don’t want to play with them all the time.
For all of us who sell tables, the one situation that hurts the most is when you have a buyer who really enjoys playing pool and wants a table only to find out that they simply don’t have the room for it.
Everyone loses. They can’t get a table, and we lose a sale.
So what is the minimum size that you can have and still enjoy a good game? It’s a good question, but very subjective, so I’ll give you my personal opinion on what I do. I am also assuming this is for a room with 4 solid walls, not an open room that just happens to have a post at 12”.
Our largest selling table has playfield dimensions of 40” x 80”. It is the largest table in the 7’ category (and only 4” less in width and 8” in length than a regular 8’ table).
If you look at the chart above. The wall to wall space needed is 12’ 10” x 16’ 2”. If it was an average family that just wants to have fun, I’d drop down to 12’ in width, include a short cue but I would make sure that they were aware that they we’re going to be a bit tight on some shots. In this example, if the room size was under 12’ (in width) I start to go the other way, and try and convince them not to buy the table.
For a good read about why playing on a large table doesn’t make you a better league (smaller table) player, click here.